Strawberries
Strawberries are nutritious food full of anti-oxidants. Photo credit – David J Boozer via unsplash.com
By Jodi Bay, UC Master Gardener of San Diego County
“There's nothing quite like the taste of a beautiful summer strawberry.” - William Katt
Sweet and delectable, strawberries are many things to many people: a savory treat, a flavor that brings back summer memories, a food rich in anti-oxidants, or a fun way to introduce kids to healthy eating. It is an easy-to-grow crop that yields quantities of delicious produce. What it isn’t is a fruit. They aren’t even berries. Horticulturist classify strawberries as ‘aggregate fruits’: The edible part is the end of the stamen and what looks like seeds are the actual fruit.
Strawberries are known to have existed during the Roman times. Ovid and Virgil mentioned strawberries in their poems. But those strawberries were ornamentals, not edibles as the fruit were tasteless. Wild strawberries began being cultivated in European gardens in the 1500’s. It wasn’t until hybridization of the Virginia (Fragaria virginiana) of North America and the Chilean strawberry (Fragaria chiloensis) in the 1700’s in Europe that the strawberry had both taste and size similar to what we know today.
Economically, strawberries are important to California and San Diego County. At $3.02 billion, they are the third highest grossing crop in the state. In recent years, San Diego County has grown strawberries on 200 acres which grossed over $12M making it the 6th highest fruit and nut crop value after avocados and citrus.
“Strawberries grow well in planters.” Photo Credit – Jodi Bay
“Plant strawberries on a mound to reduce root rot. The plastic help to reduce weeds and retain water.” Photo Credit – Gina Tigere via unsplash.com
Strawberries can be grown in ground or in containers. What they need to thrive is sun; sandy, well-drained soil; regular fertilization; and water. Select a site that gets at least 6 hours of sunlight daily. Mound the well-draining soil into hills or rows 6 to 8 inches high and about 12 to 18 inches wide. This helps keep the roots from becoming too wet, reducing the chances of root rot. Amend the soil with 1-lbs of compost per square foot. According to the University of California when planting, “…place 1 teaspoon of slow-release fertilizer, ammonium phosphate, or ammonium sulfate in the bottom of the hole, and cover the fertilizer with about 1 inch of soil. Place the plant on top and firm the soil around the plant.”1 Maintain the good health of the strawberries with nitrogen (N) fertilizer every 4 weeks. Drip irrigation works best with strawberries. Place the emitter about 2 inches from the crown and run twice a week for 1 to 2 hours (rate of 1 to 2 gallons per hour) in sandy loam. Furrow irrigation is another method for raised beds and larger strawberry patches.
“Strawberries come in all sizes. This is the variety ‘Chandler.” Photo Credit – Jodi Bay
Strawberries are productive for 3 to 5 years. Propagating replacement plants is a way to ensure that your garden is filled with strawberries. The propagation method for strawberries is via “runners”, vine-like mini-plants which emanate from the mother plant. For best strawberry production, remove runners from plants that are not yet established. This focuses the plants resources growing more crowns and on establishing roots and leaves leading to better strawberry production. If more strawberry plants are desired, keep the runners on the plant and grow the new plants is pots or trays. Fill the container with a loose soil, make a small hole, put fertilizer in the hole and place the plant in the hole while still attached to the mother plant. Secure the new plant with a 2–3-inch wire, bent into an ‘U’ shape. Put the open end of the “U” into the soil with the closed end over or close to the plant crown. When the plant roots have established, cut the runner from the mother plant. Seeds are not true to type and the resulting plant may not match the original.
Just like humans, pests love strawberries. One of the drawbacks to growing strawberries is the large number of insects, fungus and invertebrate pests that dine on their delectability. Many can be managed by hand-picking (snails, slugs), a strong stream of water (aphids) and by keeping the soil moist, not wet (various root rots). For a complete list of possible ailments and remedies, go to this link: https://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/GARDEN/FRUIT/strawberries.html .
1https://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/GARDEN/FRUIT/ENVIRON/fertilizstrawb.html
Jodi Bay has been a Master Gardener since 2012. She is past chair of the Tool Care Committee, and an instructor in the Beginning Vegetable Gardening workshops which teaches new gardeners how to grow healthy and bountiful vegetables.
Sources
https://ucanr.edu/sites/sdsmallfarms/files/377300.pdf
https://cagardenweb.ucanr.edu/Berries/Strawberries/ - growing guides
https://ipm.ucanr.edu/agriculture/strawberry/#gsc.tab=0 - pest
https://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/GARDEN/FRUIT/strawberries.html - pests and cultural info
https://www.uvm.edu/vtvegandberry/factsheets/strawberryhistory.html - history Univ of Vermont
https://www.canr.msu.edu/news/celebrating_the_history_of_the_strawberry - history and crosses to today’s strawberry
https://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/GARDEN/FRUIT/CULTURAL/strawberrytime.html - planting season
https://ucanr.edu/sites/gardenweb/Berries/Strawberries/ - growing
https://extension.oregonstate.edu/catalog/pub/ec-1307-growing-strawberries-your-home-garden - productivity, growing